Hand-rolled chocolate truffles dusted with cocoa

The Truffle Case, Flavor by Flavor

The Truffle Case, Flavor by Flavor

The first cold mornings change what people order. In July, folks ask for ice cream before the door has shut behind them. In November they come in with their collars up, stand in front of the chocolate case, and take their time. A lot of them land on the truffles.

There are twelve of them. Here is the case, flavor by flavor, and a little about how they get made.

What a truffle is, in our hands

A truffle is two things: a ganache center and a shell. Ganache is chocolate and cream warmed together and stirred until it stops looking like two ingredients and starts looking like one — thick, glossy, slow off the spoon. Whatever gives the truffle its name goes in while the ganache is still warm. The espresso. The raspberry. The key lime.

Then it cools and firms up overnight, gets scooped and rolled by hand, and goes into tempered chocolate one at a time. That little swirl on top of every truffle is simply where the dipper lifted it out. No mold made that. Somebody’s wrist did.

Small batches, the way candy has been made in our Keystone shop since 1977.

The chocolate end of the case

Three dark chocolate truffles with swirled tops, hand-dipped at Turtle Town

The Dark Chocolate truffle is the plainest thing in the case and the hardest to hide behind. Dark ganache, dark shell, nothing on top. If the chocolate is not good, you find out immediately. People who order it tend to order it again.

The Espresso is a ganache with real espresso in it, dipped in milk chocolate, with a whole coffee bean set on top so there is no guessing. The Peanut Butter is chunky on purpose — crunchy peanut chips worked right into the center, then milk chocolate over it.

The Raspberry is a raspberry milk chocolate ganache under milk chocolate, finished with red nonpareils. The Mint gets a light green shell and a milk chocolate drizzle, which is how you spot it from across the counter. And the Bear Paw truffle is a caramel milk chocolate ganache topped with pecan pieces — our bear paw candy, more or less, in a different shape.

The white chocolate end

Three white chocolate champagne truffles topped with flecks of edible gold

This half of the case is where the color is. White chocolate takes flavor differently than dark does — brighter, less of an argument — so the fruit ones live over here.

  • Champagne — champagne-infused white ganache, white shell, edible gold on top. The one people buy for New Year’s and anniversaries.
  • Wedding Cake — vanilla cake flavor through a white ganache, dipped in white chocolate, finished with silver glitter.
  • Cheesecake — white chocolate cheesecake ganache with graham cracker crumble over the top. It tastes like the real thing, which still surprises people.
  • Key Lime — key lime white ganache, pale green shell, graham cracker crumble again.
  • Lemon — lemon white ganache in a yellow shell. Sharp and clean.
  • Dreamsicle — orange cream ganache, orange chocolate, white drizzle. Exactly what the name promises.

You can see all twelve on the truffle page. They run $3.50 apiece.

Coffee helps

Three milk chocolate espresso truffles, each topped with a whole coffee bean

Our Hill City shop has a European-style coffee bar, and in the cold months that is half the reason people come in. Order something hot, take two truffles, sit down for twenty minutes while the car warms up. The espresso truffle alongside a dark roast is the obvious pairing. The less obvious one is the key lime with black coffee, which works better than it has any right to.

A truffle is best at room temperature. If yours has been sitting in a cold car, give it ten minutes before you eat it. The ganache softens and the flavor opens up. Cold chocolate holds back.

Where to find them

The Hill City shop at 205 Main Street is open year-round, most days through the winter. Our Keystone shop at 117 Winter Street runs spring through October, so it is closed for the season now and will open again in the spring.

If you are coming for a particular flavor, call ahead. The case is made by hand in small batches, and what is in it changes week to week. If you are not coming at all, the online shop ships anywhere in the U.S., and orders over $50 ship free.

Either way, start with the dark chocolate. Then work your way across the case over the winter. There are worse projects.

Chocolate Nut Fudge.

Hill City in Winter: The Shop That Stays Open

Hill City in Winter: The Shop That Stays Open

The candy cases in Keystone went quiet at the end of October, the way they do every year. That shop runs spring through October, and 117 Winter Street will sit dark until the hills green up again.

The Hill City shop does not close. From November to April, 205 Main Street is the one with the lights on. If you live here, you already know that. If you are planning a winter trip, it is worth knowing where the chocolate is.

The Hills are a different place in November

The first thing that changes is the roads. Needles Highway closes to vehicles with the first snow of the season and stays closed until April 1 or later, depending on how the winter goes. Iron Mountain Road shuts down periodically when the snow comes faster than it can be cleared. The Wildlife Loop stays open year-round, though you drive it carefully. Custer State Park posts all of this on its scenic drives page, and it is worth a look the morning you head out rather than the week before.

What you get in trade is a quieter set of hills. Shorter drives. Parking anywhere you like. Bison standing in the open with nothing between you and them but cold air. The 1880 Train runs its Holiday Express out of the Hill City depot on select dates from late November into early January, which puts a good number of families on Main Street on winter evenings. Check their schedule before you build a day around it.

There is a coffee bar, and only here

Hill City has the European-style coffee bar. Keystone does not have one. On a January afternoon when the wind is coming down Main Street, that is the difference between a stop and a visit.

A white cup of black coffee on a saucer with cinnamon sticks, dark chocolate squares, whole nuts and roasted coffee beans on a wooden table

Espresso and dark chocolate were made for each other, and the counter is about eight feet from the chocolate case. Order something hot, pick two pieces out of the case, sit down. Most days that is the whole plan.

What we make when the buses stop coming

Summer is production. Winter is the part of the year where we make what the season asks for, in the small batches we have been making by hand since 1977.

Divinity is the clearest example. It is egg white and cooked sugar, beaten until it stops running and starts holding its shape, and it is honest about the weather. Beat it on a damp day and it will not set the way it should. Cold, dry Black Hills air in December is close to ideal. It comes out white, light, a little chewy at the center, and it tastes like a grandmother’s kitchen because for most people it was one.

Three pieces of white handmade divinity candy with soft peaked tops on a white background

Peppermint cremes show up around the same time. A soft mint center, dipped in dark chocolate, cool and clean after a heavy dinner. Fudge keeps going all winter, cut off the slab, and the caramels and bear paws do not take a season off either. Inventory moves, so if you are driving in for one particular thing, call ahead and we will set it aside.

Six round peppermint cremes coated in dark chocolate, grouped on a white background

Yes, people order ice cream in January

Every year someone is surprised that the ice cream case is still running in the middle of winter. It is, and it stays busy. Malts hold up fine in a cold month, and a sundae eaten indoors with snow on the window is its own small argument. The ice cream menu is the same one you would find in July.

If you are not getting up the hill this winter

Plenty of people who love this shop live nowhere near it. The online store runs all winter and ships anywhere in the United States, and orders over $50 ship free. Pack a box for someone who used to come through every summer, and it will land as something more than candy.

Finding us

  • Hill City: 205 Main Street, open year-round, including right through the winter.
  • Keystone: 117 Winter Street, closed for the season, back in the spring.
  • Winter hours shift with the weather and the week. Call ahead if you are driving a long way.

The hills are quieter now. That is not a drawback. Come stand at the counter, let someone else shovel their own walk, and take your time choosing.

Shipping Black Hills Candy for the Holidays

Shipping Black Hills Candy for the Holidays

The last week of October is when the Hills go quiet. The tour buses stop coming through Keystone, the aspens have mostly let go, and our Winter Street shop closes up for the winter the way it has every year since we opened. Hill City stays. That shop at 205 Main Street is open through the snow, and from November until spring it is the only counter we have.

Which means that for most of the people who found us this summer, the next box of fudge is going to arrive in the mail. We have been shipping candy out of the Black Hills for a long time, and this is the time of year we start thinking about it hard. Here is what we have learned about getting it to your door in one piece.

What travels well

Winter is the easy season for mailing chocolate. In July we watch the forecast and sometimes hold an order until Monday so it is not sitting in a truck over a weekend. From November on, the cold does the work for us. Nearly everything on the shelf ships well once the weather turns.

Fudge is the best traveler we have. It is cut thick, wrapped, and it stays soft for a good while — a loaf that leaves here on Monday is still cutting cleanly the following week. Chocolate, penuche, maple, caramel pecan, and whatever else the kitchen has going that day.

A thick loaf of dark chocolate fudge with a cut slab leaning against it

English toffee is the other one we never worry about. It is hard, it is dry, and it keeps for weeks in a tin without losing its snap. Caramels and sea salt caramels do fine. Bear paws travel well once it is cold, and so do the truffles, though truffles are the one thing we would tell you to eat first rather than set aside until Christmas morning.

Six dark chocolate sea salt cream caramels topped with coarse salt crystals

Taffy is forgiving and travels about as well as anything we make. Ice cream, malts, and the specialty sundaes do not travel at all. Those you have to come get, and in the winter that means Hill City.

The one that gets opened first

If you are mailing something to someone who has never been out here, send them the mountain. We pour a solid one-pound Mount Rushmore in milk chocolate, four faces and all, and it is usually $35. There is a dark chocolate version and a white chocolate one too.

A solid milk chocolate Mount Rushmore with the four presidents' faces molded in relief

It is a solid block of chocolate, so it holds up to the mail better than most novelty things do, and it is the box that gets opened first at the family table. Nobody wants to cut into it. Eventually somebody does.

When to order

Everything goes out USPS Priority Mail, which usually puts a box on a doorstep about three days after it leaves us. We generally need a day or two on our end to make and pack it, and December is the month that gets tight.

The Postal Service is recommending December 18 as the Priority Mail send-by date for deliveries in the lower 48 before Christmas. You can see their full list of dates for the other services. Our own advice is simpler: order by the second week of December and stop thinking about it. Candy made in a small kitchen the week before Christmas is candy made in a small kitchen the week before Christmas, and we would rather pour yours without the clock running.

  • Orders over $50 ship free anywhere in the U.S.
  • We do not ship outside the country.
  • Shipping a few boxes to a few different addresses is normal this time of year — call the Hill City shop and we will sort it out with you.

The online store is open all winter, and the shipping details are there if you want the specifics.

If you are in the Hills this winter

Come to 205 Main Street in Hill City. It is the shop that does not close. We put gift boxes together at the counter in December, which is a better way to do it than guessing from a website, and the coffee bar is running — Hill City in January rewards anyone holding something hot.

Hours shift with the season and the weather, so call ahead at (605) 787-2925 if you are making a special trip. Most days in winter we are there well before the Mickelson Trail parking lot has anybody in it.

We have been making candy by hand, in small batches, since 1977. The part we like best is still a box going out the door with somebody’s name on it.

Milk Chocolate Pecan Bear Paw.

What Is a Bear Paw Candy?

What Is a Bear Paw Candy?

Milk chocolate pecan bear paw from Turtle Town, seen from above

If you’ve walked into one of our shops in Keystone or Hill City, you’ve probably seen them stacked in the case: lumpy, golden-edged, a little different every time. That’s a bear paw, and it’s the candy we’re best known for.

So what is it?

A bear paw is a small cluster of nuts topped with soft caramel and covered in chocolate. Look at one from above and you’ll see where the name comes from: the nuts poke out around the edges like toes on a paw.

It sounds simple, and it is. That’s the point. When there are only three ingredients, each one has to be good.

How we make them

Every bear paw is made by hand in our Black Hills kitchens. We set the nuts, pour the caramel over them, and cover the whole thing in chocolate. Because a person does every step, no two paws look exactly alike. Some are a little wider, some have an extra nut sticking out. They all taste the same, which is to say, they don’t last long.

Three handmade milk chocolate pecan bear paws

Nine ways to have one

You pick the nut and the chocolate:

  • Nuts: pecan, cashew or almond
  • Chocolate: milk, dark or white

That’s nine combinations, and every one is $5.50. If you can’t decide, the milk chocolate pecan is the classic place to start. Dark chocolate cashew is the pick for people who like it less sweet.

Sugar-free bear paws

Watching your sugar doesn’t mean skipping the bear paw. We make sugar-free bear paws in milk and dark chocolate, with pecans, cashews or almonds. That’s six kinds, all made by hand the same way, at the same price.

More ways to get the flavor

Caramel, nuts and chocolate work in more than one shape. Try our Bear Paw Fudge or the Bear Paw Truffle if you want the same flavors in a different bite.

Sending some home

Bear paws travel well and make an easy gift from the Black Hills. We ship anywhere in the U.S. by USPS Priority Mail from Hill City, and orders over $50 ship free.

Or stop by either shop and pick out your own. We’ll let you take your time choosing.

Three broken pieces of English toffee topped with milk chocolate and sliced almonds

English Toffee: How We Make It, and Why It Keeps

English Toffee: How We Make It, and Why It Keeps

The kitchen smells different in October. In July it is mostly sugar and cream and whatever ice cream flavor somebody just opened. By the middle of October, with the back door shut against the wind, the smell that fills the room is browning butter. That is toffee cooking, and it is the batch we pay the closest attention to all year.

We have been making candy by hand, in small batches, since 1977. Some of it is forgiving. Fudge will wait for you. Caramel will mostly wait for you. Toffee will not.

What English toffee actually is

Two ingredients carry it: butter and sugar. That is close to the whole list. There is no cream in it, which is what separates toffee from caramel. Caramel stays soft because of the dairy. Toffee gets cooked hotter and further, until the sugar goes past chewy and into brittle, and then it snaps.

Ours gets almonds and a layer of chocolate over the top. Bite through it and you get three things in order — the snap, then butter, then the toasted almond underneath. It is a loud candy. People eat it standing over the counter so the pieces do not get away from them.

The part where you cannot walk away

Butter and sugar go in the kettle together and come up slowly. For a while nothing looks like it is happening. Then the batch starts to change color, and once it starts it moves fast — pale gold, then honey, then the shade of a penny. That last stretch is maybe a minute wide.

You go by color and by smell more than anything. Pull it early and it will be soft and taste flat. Leave it thirty seconds long and the butter scorches, and there is no fixing that. You start over. Everyone who has made candy for a living has thrown out a batch of toffee and taken the lesson.

When it is right, it goes out onto the slab and gets spread thin while it is still moving. Chocolate goes on while the surface is hot enough to melt it, which is the trick — the chocolate marries into the toffee instead of sitting on top of it like a lid. Almonds go over that. Then it cools, and it sets up hard, and we break it into sheets by hand. The pieces come out uneven on purpose. A toffee piece cut square looks like it came out of a machine.

English toffee broken into uneven pieces, topped with chocolate and chopped nuts, resting on a wooden board

It travels better than anything else we make

This is the practical reason we make a lot of toffee once the weather turns. Toffee has no cream in it and nothing soft to go wrong. It does not bloom, it does not weep, and it does not mind a cold mailbox. Of everything in our cases, it is the piece we feel best about putting in a box and sending across the country.

We ship anywhere in the United States from our online store, and orders over fifty dollars ship free. If you are mailing candy to somebody for the holidays, order earlier than feels necessary. Everyone decides at the same time, and the last two weeks of December belong to the shipping companies, not to us.

There is a sugar-free version

Toffee is a hard candy to make without sugar, because sugar is most of the structure. Ours comes out close — the same snap, the same almonds, the same browned-butter flavor. It is usually in the case alongside the rest of our sugar-free selection. If you are driving a long way for it, call ahead, because sugar-free items sell out faster than we expect them to.

A single piece of sugar-free English toffee coated in milk chocolate and sliced almonds

Where to find it right now

Both shops have English toffee most days, though the calendar matters this time of year.

  • Keystone, 117 Winter Street — open spring through October, so these are the last days of the season. Hours get shorter as the month runs out and they move with the weather. Call ahead if you are making the drive.
  • Hill City, 205 Main Street — open year-round. Once Keystone closes, this is the shop, and the European-style coffee bar is here. A piece of toffee next to an espresso is the best five minutes of a cold afternoon.
  • Ice cream — still running at both shops while Keystone is open. Nobody believes us until they see somebody order a specialty sundae in a forty-degree breeze.

If you are wondering whether a late-fall or winter trip up here is worth it, the short answer is yes, and quieter. Mount Rushmore is open every day of the year except December 25, when the buildings close but the grounds stay open if the weather allows. The parking is easy. The viewing terrace is nearly empty some mornings. And Hill City is twenty minutes down the road with the lights on and the kettles going.

Come by on a cold day and ask what is on the slab. Most days in the next few months, the answer involves butter.

The Last Weeks of the Keystone Season

The Last Weeks of the Keystone Season

October is the quiet month in Keystone. The buses thin out, parking opens up on Winter Street, and the hillsides above town go gold where the aspen stand in among the pines. Mornings start cold enough that you want your hands around something warm. By two in the afternoon you are carrying your jacket.

It is also the last stretch of our season. The Keystone shop is open spring through October, and when the month runs out we clean the kettles, pack what is left, and move the whole operation up the road for the winter. If a trip to Keystone is on your list this year, these are the weeks.

What the shop is like right now

Better, honestly. In July you wait behind a family of nine deciding between maple nut and penuche. In October you walk up to the case and take your time. We still pour fudge most days, and the marble slab out front is still the best show in the shop — hot fudge spread thin, worked with a scraper until it loses its shine and starts to set.

The ice cream counter stays on until we close, which surprises people in a 45-degree breeze. Jumbo scoops, soft serve, malts, specialty sundaes. Plenty of folks order one anyway and eat it in the car with the heater running. That is a Black Hills tradition as much as anything else here.

One thing to know: our hours shorten as the month goes on, and they move with the weather and the traffic. Most days we are open well into the evening, but late in October it is worth a phone call before you drive up. Keystone is (605) 666-4675.

What to take home before the door closes

Everything we make keeps better than people expect, which makes the last visit of the season a good time to stock up.

  • Fudge. Cut thick off the slab. Chocolate and chocolate nut move fastest, but penuche — brown sugar, no cocoa at all — is the one that converts people.
  • Bear paws. Pecans or cashews or almonds, our own caramel poured over the top, then dipped. A Black Hills staple and usually the first thing a regular asks for.
  • Caramels. Cooked in copper, cut by hand, wrapped one at a time. The sea salt ones in dark chocolate are the ones we hear about.
  • Taffy. Buy a bag, forget it in the glove box, find it in January, and it is still good.
  • English toffee. Buttery and brittle under the chocolate. It travels well and it keeps.

There is a full sugar-free selection too — clusters, caramels, toffee, bear paws — for the people in your group who usually stand by the door and wait.

Wrapped sea salt taffy spilling from a large copper kettle beside a small chalkboard sign reading Sea Salt Taffy

The roads close before we do

If you are building a drive around the visit, check the roads first. South Dakota Game, Fish and Parks says the Needles Highway closes to vehicles with the first snow of the season and does not reopen until April 1, or later depending on conditions. Iron Mountain Road stays open longer but closes off and on through the winter, depending on how fast the plows can get it cleared.

Mount Rushmore itself is the steady one. The National Park Service keeps the memorial open every day of the year except December 25, though the buildings and programs run on shorter winter hours starting in November. Worth checking the park’s own hours page the week you travel rather than trusting a schedule you saw in July.

We are just down the hill from the memorial. Most people come down off the mountain, find the light fading, and want something sweet before the drive back to Rapid City. That is most of our October afternoons.

After October, find us in Hill City

When Keystone closes for the winter, our Hill City shop keeps going. It is open year-round at 205 Main Street, and it is the one with the European-style coffee bar — espresso, cappuccino, a quiet table by the window while the snow comes down on Main Street. Same fudge, same bear paws, same ice cream counter. The slab out front runs all winter.

The brick storefront of the Turtle Town shop at 205 Main Street in Hill City, South Dakota, with red and white striped awnings and a gold Turtle Town Coffee and Fudge sign

Hill City stays busier in the off-season than people assume. The 1880 Train runs out of Hill City from May through December, the galleries stay open, and November and December bring the kind of weekend where a warm shop with a coffee machine is exactly where everybody ends up.

Or we put it in a box

If you are not getting back out here before spring, our online shop ships anywhere in the United States, and orders over $50 ship free. Fudge, bear paws, caramels, truffles, toffee, taffy, the sugar-free selection — all of it, packed the same week it is made.

We have been making candy by hand, in small batches, since 1977. Some years that means a July line out the door. Some years it means a Tuesday in late October with four people in the shop and the whole counter to yourself. We like both, but the second one is a little easier to recommend.

Cream Caramels.

The Two-Dollar Candy That Outsells Everything Else

The Two-Dollar Candy That Outsells Everything Else

People ask us fairly often what our best seller is. They usually expect the answer to involve chocolate. It doesn’t. The single most popular thing in the case is a plain cream caramel, sold by the piece for two dollars, with nothing on it at all.

It has been that way for a long time. We have been making candy by hand, in small batches, since 1977, and the caramel is the piece that quietly outsells the showier things sitting next to it.

What a cream caramel actually is

Caramel is a simple idea done slowly. Sugar, cream, butter, time. The cream is what separates a candy-shop caramel from the kind that comes in a plastic bag. It gives you a center that stays soft and buttery instead of turning into a workout for your jaw.

You can tell within the first bite. A good cream caramel gives way, then lets go slowly. It is rich without being cloying, and chewy without pulling a filling. That is the whole trick, and there is no shortcut to it — the batch takes as long as it takes.

We sell the cream caramel by the piece, which is either the perfect small treat or a rookie mistake. Most people who buy one buy several the next time.

Then we start dipping them

The same center goes in a lot of directions once chocolate gets involved, and each one tastes like a different candy.

Three hand-dipped dark chocolate caramels on a white background

Dipped in milk chocolate, you get the classic — soft center, chocolate that snaps just enough before the whole thing melts together. It is the safest gift in the store. Nobody has ever handed one back.

Dipped in dark chocolate, the sweetness pulls back and the butter comes forward. People who say they don’t like caramel often mean they don’t like sweet. This is usually the one that changes their mind.

Close-up of a chocolate-dipped sea salt caramel topped with coarse salt crystals

Then there is sea salt. A pinch of coarse salt on top of the chocolate sharpens everything underneath it and makes the caramel taste more like caramel. The dark chocolate sea salt caramel is the grown-up version; the milk chocolate one is its sweeter sibling. Buying a few of each is the honest way to settle the argument.

If you want the caramel worked into something bigger, it also turns up in our caramel pecan fudge and in the bear paws, where it sits between pecans and chocolate.

October is the last month in Keystone

Our Keystone shop at 117 Winter Street runs spring through October, so this is the stretch where people come through and stock up before we close for the winter. If you are heading up to Mount Rushmore this month, the memorial’s grounds and visitor center are on fall hours, 8 a.m. to 5 p.m., and the evening lighting program starts at 5 p.m. beginning October 1 — worth checking the park’s hours page before you go.

Keystone is a short walk of a town, which is the nice part. You can see the faces, come back down the hill, and be holding a caramel twenty minutes later.

The Turtle Town storefront at 205 Main Street in Hill City, South Dakota, with red and white striped awnings and a brick facade

Once Keystone closes, Hill City carries the winter. The shop at 205 Main Street is open year-round, with the coffee bar going and the candy case full, and it stays that way through the quiet months when the highways empty out. Hours shift with the season, so call ahead if you are making a special trip.

If you can’t get here

Caramels travel well, which is not true of everything we make. They ship anywhere in the U.S., and orders over $50 ship free. Most people who order start with a box of the milk chocolate ones and add a few sea salt pieces to see what all the fuss is about.

It is also the time of year to start thinking a few weeks ahead. The holiday shipping window fills up faster than anyone expects, and caramel keeps better than most candy. You can see the whole case in our online shop.

Either way, if you do make it through the door, get the plain one first. Two dollars is a cheap way to find out why it outsells everything else.

A Fall Color Loop from Keystone to Hill City

A Fall Color Loop from Keystone to Hill City

Late September in the Black Hills smells like pine and cold creek water, and the aspens are starting to go gold along the high roads. If you have one free day this fall, spend it on the loop that begins at our Keystone front door and ends at our Hill City one.

The timing is good right now. Fall color in the Hills usually peaks from late September into early October, with the higher elevations turning first and the valleys holding their color into mid-October. One guide we like puts the sweet spot at September 25 through October 10. That window is open.

Morning: Iron Mountain Road out of Keystone

Start early. The light is softer, the pullouts are empty, and you will want a jacket until the sun gets over the ridgelines.

Iron Mountain Road (US 16A) leaves Keystone heading south and runs 17 miles of curves toward Custer State Park. It is the road with the pigtail bridges, those wooden corkscrews that let you drop or gain altitude in a hurry, and three rock tunnels. The tunnels are cut so that Mount Rushmore sits framed in the opening, far off in the distance. Heading south, use the pullouts and look back toward the mountain. With yellow leaves in the foreground, it is the picture people take home.

Mount Rushmore framed in the opening of a rock tunnel on Iron Mountain Road in the Black Hills of South Dakota
Mount Rushmore framed by one of the Iron Mountain Road tunnels. Photo: Kimon Berlin, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Give it at least an hour. Nobody drives Iron Mountain Road fast, and nobody should.

Midday: the Needles and Sylvan Lake

Iron Mountain Road and the Needles Highway are two pieces of the Peter Norbeck Scenic Byway, named for the South Dakota senator and conservationist who planned and surveyed most of the roads in Custer State Park.

The Needles Highway (SD 87) is 14 miles of granite spires, tight switchbacks and two narrow tunnels. The Needles Eye Tunnel is 8 feet wide and 9 feet 9 inches high, so if you are traveling in a big pickup, a trailer or an RV, measure before you go. Plan on an hour or more here too, longer if you stop for every spire that catches the light, and you will.

The Needles Highway winding between tall granite spires and ponderosa pines in Custer State Park, South Dakota
Granite spires along the Needles Highway. Photo: U.S. National Archives (public domain)

A few things worth knowing:

  • The loop passes through Custer State Park, which requires a park entrance license. Details are on the South Dakota Game, Fish and Parks website.
  • The Needles Highway closes to vehicles with the first snow of the season and does not reopen until April 1 or later. In the Hills, that first snow can come without much notice, so if this drive is on your list, sooner beats later.
  • If you are in the area Friday, September 25, the Custer State Park Buffalo Roundup brings about 1,300 bison thundering in off the prairie, with the Arts Festival running September 24 through 26. Expect more traffic in the park that week.

The Needles spill out near Sylvan Lake, which is the right place for a long lunch. The water holds the reflection of the rocks and the turning trees, there is an easy trail around the shore, and if you have the legs, the trail to Black Elk Peak starts here too.

Sylvan Lake in October with golden aspens and granite boulders reflected in still water, Custer State Park, South Dakota
Sylvan Lake on an October morning. Photo: Pahcal123, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

What to pack for the road

The full byway takes three to four hours of driving, and most people turn it into a whole day. That means snacks, and we have opinions about snacks.

We have been making candy in the Hills since 1977, and a good share of what leaves our shops in the fall ends up riding shotgun on these roads. Fudge travels well. So do caramels, toffee and our bear paws: pecans, soft caramel and chocolate, made by hand in small batches the same way they have been for decades. A bear paw eaten at a Needles Highway pullout, with the air cold enough that the chocolate stays firm and snaps a little, tastes about as good as candy gets. If you are traveling with someone watching their sugar, we make sugar-free candy too, and our coffee and tea bar is there for those chilly early starts.

Our advice is simple: stop at the Keystone shop on your way out in the morning, and save room for the Hill City shop on the way home.

Evening: Hill City, and one last look at Rushmore

From Sylvan Lake it is a short drive north to Hill City, where the loop ends on Main Street. It is a good place to walk off a day in the car, and the pace slows down once the summer crowds thin out.

If you still have energy after dinner, Mount Rushmore is lit every night of the year. The ranger-led evening lighting program, though, runs only through the end of September, so this is the last week to catch it before it wraps for the season. After that, the sculpture is still illuminated after dark, just without the program.

Come see us this fall

Our Keystone shop stays open into the fall before closing for the winter, and our Hill City shop is open all year, so whichever end of the loop you start from, the kettles will be going. Stop in, say hello and let us know how the leaves looked up high. We always want to hear.

Turtle Town Keystone, 117 Winter St · Turtle Town Hill City, 205 Main St

A Fall Weekend in Hill City

A Fall Weekend in Hill City

The Hills change fast in the last week of September. One weekend the aspen up on the high roads are still green, and by the next the whole draw has gone yellow. If you are trying to pick a weekend to come see it, here is how the next month lays out from where we sit on Main Street.

The color comes in from the top down

Most Black Hills fall-color guides point at roughly September 25 through October 10 as the window worth planning around. The high country turns first — aspen going yellow, sumac going red along the road cuts — while the lower valleys hold their color into the middle of October. That spread is good news for anyone who can only get away one weekend. There is usually somewhere in the Hills doing something worth the drive.

The classic loop out of Hill City runs south and east: Needles Highway on SD 87 with the leaves framing the granite, Sylvan Lake where the water doubles the view, the Wildlife Loop through Custer State Park, and Iron Mountain Road on the way back with its tunnels lined up on Mount Rushmore. It is not a fast drive and it is not meant to be. Give it most of a day, check road conditions before you go, and pack a jacket, because the mornings up there have started to bite.

Main Street becomes a finish line October 3 and 4

The first weekend of October, Hill City hosts Run Crazy Horse. Saturday, October 3 brings the Fast 5K and the Kids 1K, both point-to-point downhill on the Mickelson Trail. Sunday, October 4, the marathon and half marathon start at 8 a.m. at the Crazy Horse Memorial visitor center and run north, finishing on Main Street in front of the Bumpin’ Buffalo. There is also a five-person relay for people who would rather split the distance with friends.

If you are not running, this is still a good weekend to be in town. The course stays open seven hours and the race encourages walkers on both the half and the full, which means the last finishers come in well into the afternoon and the street stays busy most of the day. Main Street is only a few blocks long. Find a spot along it, and the whole race comes to you.

Earlier in the month, the calendar is already full

Two weeks before that, the Mickelson Trail Trek runs its three riding days, September 18 through 20 — Custer to Edgemont at 44.5 miles, Custer to Rochford at 39.5, and Rochford to Deadwood at 24, about 109 miles of old rail grade all told. It is a supported ride, and the towns along the trail feel it.

Then, on Friday, September 25, the Custer State Park Buffalo Roundup. Parking lots open at 6:15 a.m., and the recommendation from the park has never changed: get there early. Roughly 1,300 bison get moved by riders on horseback while a few thousand people watch from the hillsides, and it is loud in a way that photographs do not capture. The Buffalo Roundup Arts Festival runs alongside it, September 24 through 26, with more than a hundred vendors. There is no entry fee for the roundup itself, though a park entrance license is required on the surrounding days.

That Sunday, September 27, Crazy Horse Memorial holds its autumn Volksmarch — a 10-kilometer hike, with a 5K option, and one of the few days each year the public walks up onto the mountain. Registration opens at 7 a.m. and hikers start any time before 1 p.m. It is a popular one, so expect company.

The middle of the day is the best part

Somewhere in every one of those weekends there is an unscheduled hour. The color drive is done and the light is wrong for photographs. The race has an hour left in it. The kids are cold. That hour is the reason a lot of people wander into a candy shop on Main Street, and we have been happy to be that stop since 1977.

Most of what we sell gets made a batch at a time in copper kettles, the same way it was when the shop opened. Caramel cooked slow and poured out to set. Fudge worked on marble until it loses its shine and turns creamy. Bear paws — pecans, caramel, and chocolate, in that order, which is the only order that works. There is coffee and tea if you need the warm cup more than the sugar, and ice cream for the people in your group who will order it in October anyway.

We keep two shops. Hill City, at 205 Main Street, is open year-round, which matters more in the fall than it does in July. Keystone, at 117 Winter Street, runs roughly March through October, so if Keystone is on your route, this is the stretch of the year to catch it.

Come find us

Whether you are here for the bison, the leaves, the finish line, or none of the above, both shops are on the way. Stop in, watch a batch get made if the timing is right, and take something home for the drive.

Turtle Town — Hill City, 205 Main Street · Keystone, 117 Winter Street

Looking for a Candy Shop Near Rapid City? It’s a Short Drive Up the Hill

Looking for a Candy Shop Near Rapid City? It’s a Short Drive Up the Hill

Every summer, plenty of people in Rapid City search for a candy shop and come up mostly empty downtown. Here’s the honest local answer: the old-fashioned candy shops are up in the Hills, and one of them has been at it since 1977. We’re Turtle Town, we make everything by hand in small batches, and depending on which of our two shops you point the car at, we’re about thirty to forty minutes from Rapid City — usually on the way to somewhere you were already planning to go.

How far is it, exactly?

Our Keystone shop at 117 Winter Street is the close one — roughly a half-hour drive from Rapid City, straight out Highway 16 toward Mount Rushmore. If Rushmore is on your list, we’re three miles from the monument, so a candy stop adds almost nothing to the trip.

Our Hill City shop at 205 Main Street is a bit farther, closer to forty minutes, and it’s the one that stays open all year. Hill City’s Main Street also has the 1880 Train depot, galleries, and the Mickelson Trail, so the drive earns its keep even before the fudge.

What’s in the case when you get here

Both shops make candy the way it was made when the Keystone store opened in 1977: in small batches, by hand.

Fudge comes in thirteen flavors, worked on the marble slab — chocolate, penuche, maple nut, caramel pecan, and the rest of the case. Bear paws — pecans, caramel, and chocolate — are the Black Hills classic and the thing regulars ask for first. Beyond that there are hand-dipped truffles, sea salt caramels, toffee, salt water taffy, and a full sugar-free selection. Both shops also scoop ice cream — jumbo scoops, malts, and specialty sundaes — which settles most arguments about whether the kids ride along.

Make it part of a Black Hills day

Almost nobody drives out from Rapid City just for candy, and they don’t need to. Keystone pairs with Mount Rushmore and the Iron Mountain Road. Hill City pairs with the 1880 Train, Crazy Horse Memorial, and Custer State Park. Either way, the candy stop slots neatly between the big sights — and a box of fudge rides home better than most souvenirs.

Can’t make the drive?

We ship. Fudge, taffy, chocolates, and gift boxes go anywhere in the U.S. through our online store, and orders over $50 ship free. In the warm months we pack for the weather.

Come see us

Turtle Town Keystone — 117 Winter Street, Keystone, SD, open spring through October.
Turtle Town Hill City — 205 Main Street, Hill City, SD, open year-round.

Hours shift with the season, so if you’re making a special trip in the shoulder months, a quick call ahead is a good idea. Otherwise, just come up the hill. There is usually something still warm.

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